Only several years ago, it seemed like Supreme’s presence was inescapable. Unless you were living under a rock, you have probably seen the iconic logo, characterized with its red rectangle and contrasting white text. It was on everything everywhere, from hoodies to crowbars, from shoes to bricks.
But how did this iconic brand reach where it did in its peak, and is it still as relevant as it was?
Supreme was founded in April of 1994 in New York City by James Jebbia. Initially, a small store on Lafayette Street in Manhattan, it sold a small selection of skateboarding-related items and clothes and quickly became a popular hangout spot for skaters and fashion enthusiasts alike. The store was known for its unique minimalist design, with a simple white interior.
From the very start, Supreme’s culture was rooted in cultural authenticity and exclusivity. Those who knew, knew.
Supreme quickly grew, and the brand was implementing strategic collaborations and partnerships with other brands and artists. Supreme’s first collaboration was with Vans in 1996, creating a small batch of Vans’ iconic shoe, the iconic Old Skool. Since then, they have collaborated with brands from Louis Vuitton and Gucci, and from Fender Stratocaster to Kermit the Frog.
As the brand grew, so did the demand for the items. Many celebrities and early internet influencers were seen wearing Supreme merchandise. Figures like Kanye West, Ricegum, and Frank Ocean were all early supporters of the brand, and were crucial figures to its success.
Photos of these celebrities wearing Supreme would double or even triple the item’s value, making these clothes valuable assets in the reselling market.
A famous example is the hoodie Tyler, the Creator wore in his music video for “She” (2011). He sported a teal box logo hoodie, with a retail price of 150$. Tyler was a rising hip-hop star at that time, and young fans all over the world were captivated by his creative direction and overall fashion sense.
Only days after the music video was released, the resale value of the hoodie saw a dramatic jump from only around $200 to $2,500 and even around $3,000 in some cases. This simple hoodie became one of the most sought-after streetwear items overnight.
Supreme’s peak in terms of popularity and resale price is widely considered to be the late 2010s. For every new season, people would swarm stores all across the world, forming seemingly endless lines. Supreme was associated with everything streetwear, with a box logo t-shirt being the coolest thing you could have owned. But eventually, the oversaturation of this brand, coupled with its growing accessibility, and the changing brand direction would lead to the brand’s inevitable fall-off.
Supreme was obtained in 2020 by VF Corp., a global conglomerate owning some of the biggest clothing brands in the world, including the likes of Dickies, The North Face, and Vans. This purchase ended in a major loss of 600 million dollars for VF Corp, and would result in them selling it to EssilorLuxottica, a company that owns major eyewear companies.
Although the brand still maintains a loyal following, many consider the golden age of Supreme to be over. Industry experts say the brand has lost its previous spark, with designs and clothing being too minimalist and boring. The resale value of Supreme items have drastically dropped from previous years on platforms such as GOAT and StockX.
Even if the brand might not hold the superior position it did in previous years, there is no denying the effect it had on the current fashion scene, and the influence it had on the creative direction of many other brands and companies. The iconic logo, characterized with its red rectangle and contrasting white text, will forever be a staple in modern-day pop culture.
